Red Skies at Night

December 13, 2011

Konica Hexanon 40mm f1.8

Filed under: lenses, olympus ep1, photography, photos — Eric Jeschke @ 11:56 pm

Untitled

Key: R20111213-185740-master

I’m emerging from a very hectic and tiring week at work, with many late nights put in. During the week, the second Konica u4/3 adapter I ordered showed up and tonight while relaxing with the family I attached the Hexanon 40mm f1.8 and plugged it on to the Olympus EP-1 for a couple quick test shots.

Top shot is wide open at f1.8, available indoor light. I don’t remember what iso the camera chose, but the shutter speed was 1/30. Even with the vaunted in-body stabilization the image looks a little soft, and has a similar “glow” effect to the 50mm f1.4 at the largest apertures. The lower image was taken at f2.8 and required a shutter speed of 1/10 to keep the same exposure. You can see that even hand-held the second shot is sharper across the frame.

This is a nice focal length to keep a little distance between you and your subject (80mm 35 equivalent). Although my kids are used to me poking a camera in their face all the time, at this focal length it is really unintrusive.  A great portrait length I think and a good companion to the 50.

I really like how these Hexanon’s render on u4/3. It’s not a clinically sharp image like the native lenses deliver, and there is a lovely color palette that is hard to describe, but is subtly different from the native lenses.

Untitled

Key: R20111213-190223-master

November 25, 2011

Lens Testing

Size comparison: PL 45mm f1.8 Elmarit vs. Konica Hexanon 50mm f1.4 w/adapter

Key: R20111125-001905

The Konica Hexanon AR to micro 4/3rds adapter has come in. I promised that I would have some more to say about the ebay-acquired Hexanon 40mmf1.8 and the 50mmf1.4 and how they worked mounted on my micro 4/3rds kit.  I would love to start out this rolling review with a portrait image, but alas, I have not had the time to set that up yet; only brief time to play with the lenses in the late evening. I used my new little DIY mini-studio to do some simple lens testing against my only benchmark: the Panasonic Leica 45mm f2.8 Elmarit. I thought this would be a rather dull exercise, since I’m more of a “let’s just get out there and shoot and see how this thing works” kind of guy, but it turned out to be pretty interesting after all: not only did I learn something about my new (old) lenses, but I learned a lot about my old (new) lens as well!

Aperture vs. Stabilization

In my first “playing around” shots with the new 50mm f1.4, handheld and in low light, I could see that, as expected, I gained two stops over the Elmarit. What I had forgotten about was image stabilization. Testing side by side with the Elmarit, it seemed that the two stops were roughly negated when the in-lens stabilization of the Elmarit was enabled. Now of course we know that stabilization is not as useful as two stops of aperture when your subject is moving, but for still subjects this is an interesting trade-off. At least on a Panasonic camera. All other things being equal (which they are not, as you will see in a bit here) one would arguably go with the Elmarit to get the AF, electronic aperture control and other benefits of the electronic lens connection. It was at this point I had an “a-ha” moment and went and fetched my sometimes maligned Olympus ep1 body, which has in-body stabilization. The results confirmed the common wisdom that for MF lenses the in-body stabilization route is a win, as the image was slightly sharper in the details. On the downside, I found the lack of viewfinder or articulating LCD as well as the slightly more fiddly focus magnification on the Olympus to make using the MF lens not as smooth an experience as on the gh1. There are some interesting questions about the ergonomics of MF lenses on these sorts of bodies wrapped up in this, and I will likely return to this topic in a future post after I’ve had time to explore the lenses a bit more on both bodies and set up some more reliable tests.

Size, Weight and Miscellanea

The legacy lenses are solid. There is more glass in there than you need to cover the image circle needed for a 4/3 sensor.  That’s usually a good thing because it means you are getting more of the sweet center part of the glass where the lens performance is best.   The carrying balance on the gh1 is thrown significantly to the front with these old lenses mounted, especially the 50, and so a bit tighter grip on the camera is required if shooting hand-held.  Due to the weight, focal lengths (all 2X on u4/3) and the nature of the magnified focus assist (the magnified image gets pretty jiggly hand-held), I expect to be using these lenses mostly on a tripod.  Indeed, once I had the camera mounted on the tripod, articulated the LCD, attached the remote release cord, switched to MF, and either M or A mode, I felt almost as though I were operating a 4×5 view camera, sans hood.  The experience was very relaxed and pleasurable, and uniquely suited to portraiture, landscape, still life, etc.

Size-wise it is a different story.  The MF lenses are not as small as the smallest native pancakes for this format, but they compared quite respectably to the Elmarit.  As you can see, even with the adapter attached the length is comparable.  However, due to the weight and other issues mentioned above, the bottom line is that I don’t expect to be carrying these MF lenses around for most of my regular photo excursions.  They may see heavy use in my new studio type “constructed image” experiments however.  It strikes me that they might be exceptionally good for video work as well, and very possibly preferable to the AF lenses.

The fit and finish on the Konica lenses is very good.  Solid metal and glass, with distance scale in metric and english units, depth of field markings, hyperfocal distance marks, etc.  The 50mm is in pristine shape and clicks snugly into the adapter and then the adapter into the body.  For these mid-range primes I think I’m going to get a dedicated adapter for each one.  The adapters are cheap enough at $20 apiece and it’s a bit of a hassle trying to get a grip on something that doesn’t twist on the lens in order to extricate it out of the adapter–I’m a little worried that I’ll break something in the lens doing that too many times.  This is especially a potential issue for the 40mm, because it is already a pancake design in 35mm terms (with tiny rings and no space in-between) and unlike the 50mm arrived only in “good” condition: focusing and aperture rings are smooth, and no visible marks or defects in the glass, but there is a little play in the rings that is not present in the 50mm.  It’s caveat emptor on ebay of course, and all things considered I think I did all right this time around.

The 50mm has half-stops on the aperture settings, and the minimum aperture is f16. The 40mm has only full stop detents, and goes to f22.  Close focus on both lenses is 0.45m.  The Elmarit, by contrast, has 1/3 stop aperture increments (this is most likely a body issue, since it is all electronic control) and is a macro lens as well, with a close focus of 0.15m.  Unfortunately there are no markings at all on the Elmarit lens and you only get some rudimentary information via the viewfinder or LCD.

Shooting Technique

The u4/3 adapter has no electrical or mechanical contacts whatsoever, so there is no automatic aperture control.  This means you either stop down and focus and set exposure at the desired aperture, or focus wide open and then stop down to set the exposure and take the shot.  This is actually more of a pain than the manual focusing itself, but not such a big deal if you are working slowly and methodically on a tripod.  I found that in “A” mode the camera quite happily set the shutter speed and iso for me to match the chosen aperture.  To focus, there is a button press sequence on either camera body to open up a magnified view of the image. Using this magnified view it is possible to achieve quite accurate focus, although, as I mentioned already, this works best with the camera mounted on a tripod. Once focus is achieved, a shutter button press on the GH1 or another zoom button press on the EP1 will return to shooting mode. I can see how a “focus peaking” feature would be very helpful in focusing these sorts of lenses (possibly even without having to go to magnified mode) and we can only hope that Panasonic and Olympus will see the wisdom of adding that capability to future micro 4/3rds cameras, like the Sony’s and Fuji’s have now.

Konica Hexanon 50mm f1.4 at f2.8

Key: R20111123-223520-konica50mmf2_8

Image Quality and Bokeh

I can’t really proclaim anything after only a quick set of test shots and resulting analysis. It’s going to take a lot more experience with these before the full character of these lenses is revealed.  That said, I found the initial results food for thought.  My set up, as you can see from browsing the sample images here, was three bottles separated by a few inches front to back in my mini-studio, lit from the sides and shot head-on.  For accurate comparison I manually focused all the lenses on the middle bottle label (on the middle letters of the word “vermouth”).  I shot from the same distance, and didn’t change focus after focusing at the smallest aperture available.  I realize that focus can change a bit stopping down, but I just wanted to get an initial sense of how the lenses performed focusing wide open and then stopping down. The camera was set to iso 200 and “A” mode, which changed the shutter speed accordingly.  The camera was mounted on a tripod and lens stabilization was disabled on the Elmarit for the test.

Here are my general notes on the images after studying them for a bit on the monitor:

  • Both the 50 and the 40 are pretty soft wide open.  The 40 seems just a little softer and with less contrast at 1.8 than the 50 at 1.4. I would describe the image made by either lens at those apertures as “dreamy”. There is a specular glow or haze of scattered light through out the image, at least on u4/3.  This might be an interesting effect for a portrait or a still life, but I wouldn’t expect to use it at this aperture too often.
  • With the 50 stopped down to f2.0 the image has improved a lot with much improved contrast and minimal “glow”, although the image is still just a tad soft.  I’m guessing this is the ideal aperture for a portrait on this lens. By f2.8 (2 stops down) the 50 is in excellent form–contrast and sharpness are great, at least in the center of the frame.  The 40 is improved to almost the same degree at f2.8 and both lenses track pretty well from there down to the lower apertures.  What is really interesting to me here is the PL 45mm–wide open it is almost the equal of both the 40 and 50 at f2.8!  I’d almost go so far as to say that sharpness is a toss-up here, although to my eye contrast is a little better with the MF lenses at this aperture.  This is outstanding performance wide open, and helps explain the price of the lens.
  • Color is a very subjective phenomenon.  To my eye, the Hexanons produce a slightly more saturated color.  You can notice this especially in the color of the reds on the label of the out of focus wine bottle front, although it is also visible to some degree in the greens on the vermouth bottle.  Some of what I am seeing may in fact be due to subtle micro contrast differences.
  • The character of the bokeh is slightly different between the lenses, but I can’t say anything bad about any of them.  If anything I would rank the bokeh just slightly more harsh on the 50, and a close tie between the 40 and 45.  For all, perfectly acceptable at normal viewing magnifications. Obviously there is more blur at f1.4 and f1.8 than at f2.8, so the MF lenses have that advantage in portraiture, although the difference isn’t large.

All in all I’m very pleased with the new (old) lenses. IQ-wise they appear to compare very favorably with the Leica Elmarit lens at a fraction of the price. Of course the trade off is working speed. For on the move grab-n-go style shooting I don’t think too many people are going to be happy with these on their u4/3 camera, but for more contemplative photography: portraiture, still life, abstracts, macro, landscape, etc. they are more than capable and are an excellent value right now from ebay and used camera stores. I’m looking forward to using mine. I’ll try to note the shots taken with it (for a while at least) on the blog.

September 5, 2011

Gear Talk 2011

Filed under: cameras, panasonic gh1, photography, process, products, small cameras, tools — Tags: — Eric Jeschke @ 5:44 pm

Micro 4/3rds Kit

Key: R20110905-165931

Pany 14mm f2.5 (28mm eqv), Pany GH1 w/20mm f1.7 (40mm eqv), Leica(Pany) 45 mm f2.8 macro Elmarit, Crumpler Quarfie.

…chickens sold separately.

Usually I’m not too keen on Gear Talk, although I’m certainly guilty of it from time to time. I’d prefer to talk about inspiration and the process and results of living a photographic life. And yet, gear is sometimes a part of that.

I thought I would make a post about what camera gear I am carrying and using these days, in as much for my own historical interest in the future as for my blog-reading friends out there in the here and now.

My camera of choice these days about 98% of the time is the Panasonic GH1. I find the 12 megapixel sensor is easily big enough for almost anything I want to print and I can print up to 20 inches (about 50.8 cm) a side no problem. The frames for these prints dwarf the expense of printing them, and I don’t have lots of room for these size prints in my home, so I don’t really feel the need for more megapixels. I do appreciate increases in sensor sensitivity and dynamic range, so that would be my main reason to upgrade to a newer u4/3 system from Panasonic or Olympus in the future. But for now I remain quite happy with the GH1.

I have a selection of u4/3 lenses to go with this system, but these days I am almost exclusively shooting with prime lenses. I carry 3 with me usually: the 14mm Pana f2.5, the 20mm Pana f1.7 and the 45mm Leica-branded f2.8 macro. The wonderful thing about u4/3 lenses is that I can carry all three of these lenses, with the GH1 and a spare battery and the whole kit is extremely small and light. On my last trip to NYC I bought a Crumpler bag at their store in Manhattan: the Quarfie. It’s a tad pricey, but I absolutely love this bag–it is the perfect size to carry the 3 primes plus camera and accessories unobtrusively. It drapes smoothly over the shoulder, sits comfortably just below the hip and I can wear it all day without hardly noticing that I have it on. It doesn’t even look like a camera bag, and that’s a big plus, but it does look good!

Of the three primes, the 20mm f1.7 (40mm equiv) is on the camera about 95% of the time. I just love this focal length. It is so versatile and I feel I can shoot just about anything with it. I have another case that holds just the camera with the 20mm attached which I sometimes carry if I want to go extra light. The 14 mm (28 equiv) gets thrown on from time to time for a wider view. I bought the 45 mm (90mm equiv) for portraits and macros, although I haven’t become too comfortable yet with this focal length. I want to use it more in the future and am slowing learning how it “sees”. I still use the 20mm for most candid portraits.

Crumpler Quarfie
Key: R20110905-161930-crop
Crumpler Quarfie
Key: R20110905-162327-crop

Shooting with primes has been a nice learning experience for me. I’ve been doing photography for nearly 30 years and in all that time I usually used zoom lenses. When I was using zooms I never thought about the focal length much, just zoomed to crop. Now I am acutely aware of how the focal length affects the view and I am able to previsualize the photograph in front of me much better. The fact that most of them are smaller and faster means that camera is more discrete and at the same time able to shoot in available light. I rarely feel at a disadvantage having the fixed focal length attached–quite the opposite, actually.

The other 2% of the time that I want to take a photograph I find that I didn’t bring my camera bag along. This is becoming rarer, because I enjoy the bag so much that I seldom leave the house without it, but when I do, and find myself wanting to take a photograph, I reach for my Nokia N8 camera phone. Its 28mm (equiv) f2.8 zeiss lens with a 12mp sensor takes a decent photograph when a bigger camera is not available, and I am often pleasantly surprised at the results. This camera phone was proof enough to me that the bottom segment of the digicam market is/will be rapidly eroded by the camera phone. I expect a rather huge collapse/consolidation of the pocket digicam market in the next few years.

April 10, 2011

More on Changing The Size Of The AF Focus Box On The Olympus EP-1

Filed under: cameras, olympus ep1, panasonic gh1, photography, products, small cameras — Tags: , , , , , — Eric Jeschke @ 3:00 pm

Olympus EP-1, AF test

Key: R20110410-131204-af

It looks like my post from earlier today about making the AF focusing more accurate on the Olympus EP-1 by trying to reduce the AF focus box size was too optimistic.  It seemed to help focus in my brief tests indoors, but after a bit of testing outdoors I began having my doubts that it was actually improving things.  I did some more research on the net, and after watching this video, I decided to try the same test between my Olympus EP-1 and the Panasonic GH-1.  Both cameras are using the same lens, the Panasonic 20mm f1.7, a very popular lens for micro 4/3s.  The setup is as shown in the first image.  First I focus on the tree to the left of the tree in the back center (both trees are about the same distance) so that the lens will have to move a lot in order to lock focus on the chopstick in the AF box, then recompose (as shown) to include the chopstick prominently in the AF box and press the shutter to lock focus, and fire.  Using the “workaround” small AF box on the Olympus (as described in the previous post), I was unable to get the camera to lock focus upon the chopstick in about 40 attempts.

I then decided to make the test more equitable.  I set the EP-1 to its default normal center AF point, with the lens at f2.0.  I set the GH-1 to the closest size AF box (in the frame, illustrated in approximate size by the red box in the photos) and also at f2.0.  Both cameras were in aperture-priority mode, exposure compensation set to 0.  In numerous attempts I could not get the EP-1 to lock focus on the chopstick.  The GH-1 locked on the chopstick every time.

Panasonic GH-1, AF test

Key: R20110410-125752-af

Changing the size of the AF focus box on the Olympus EP-1 and EP-2

Filed under: cameras, noted, olympus ep1, small cameras, web — Tags: , , , , , — Eric Jeschke @ 11:57 am

Leo with Flat Stanley "Cate"

Key: R20110410-105027

One of my main peeves using the Olympus EP-1 (the original “digital pen”) was that you couldn’t seemingly change the size of the AF focus box, like you can with many other cameras including the Panasonic m4/3 series.  Well, it turns out there may be a workaround that you can use.  It’s pretty clunky, but so far it seems to be working for me.  I found the answer in a forum thread here.

I think these directions will work for both the EP-1 and the EP-2 (be sure to upgrade to the latest firmware):

  • Go in shooting mode is to go to the screen with the green square in it by hitting info multiple times.
  • Hit the Ok button to get the magnified view and scroll with the top scroll wheel until you get the 10x magnification.
  • Hit Ok again to get to the normal view.
  • Now, with the arrow keys you can move the focus area area to where you want to AF. The green square at 10x is smaller than the square at 7x, and it appears to focus only within the green square.
  • If you hit info you will leave the screen and go back to the normal 10 large focus squares. I don’t know if the magnified focus screen disables face detection and multi-point AF within the screen or not (I imagine it does). If you hit info enough times you will get back to the magnified focus screen and the smaller square.
  • In the magnified focus screen area, you do lose the ability to go to the super panel, since the Ok button does the magnification.

The saving grace for this klunky workaround is that it survives a power off.  When you turn the camera back on again the small focus box is still there.  The downside is that you cannot use any of the other info screens in conjunction with this (e.g. framing lines, histogram, etc.).  This would be a pretty easy fix in an Olympus firmware upgrade, but since we are now 3 generations past the EP-1 I sort of doubt that will ever happen.  In any case, just having the workaround has made the camera much more useful to me, as I now feel like it is not slowing me down. Without the AF accuracy I would have to chimp heavily (with magnification) to make sure I got focus and possibly take additional frames if I didn’t get it the first time (something I rarely feel I have to do with the GH-1).  As I said in this post, I don’t mind manually focusing once in a while, but I generally want to do that only because *I* want to do that, not because the camera made me resort to that.

IMPORTANT ADDENDUM: see my updating findings here.

 

January 9, 2011

On Having Too Many Cameras

Filed under: cameras, olympus ep1, panasonic gh1, photography, photos, products, small cameras — Eric Jeschke @ 12:52 am

Saturday Sunset

Key: R20110108-180256

Just a short aside from my series on a Linux-based photography workflow to wrap up a couple of other topics. I mentioned previously that I had gotten an Olympus EP-1 body on a bargain sale a few months ago; I have been shooting almost exclusively with it since that time. Meanwhile my Panasonic GH1 has been sitting mostly idle and my small, carry everywhere Ricoh GX100 has seen almost no use at all.

I think something has dawned on me, finally. This has, for maybe the first time ever for me, put me in the position of having too many cameras. Previously, I’d always had at most only two cameras. Every couple of years I’d upgrade, and phase out the old one and slowly gravitate on to the new one. The old one would become the backup camera, and the older ones would be sold, given away or retired. But digital camera tech is maturing, and my current oldest camera is still a great camera to shoot with. With the acquisition of the EP-1, I was in a situation where I had 3 good cameras to choose from. I thought that this was no problem, why not just have a nice little collection of great cameras and just pick out the one I want to shoot with today? But what I found was that it was hard to switch between systems. The menus are all different, and each camera has it’s limitations and/or particular ways of working. While breaking in the EP-1 I had tried to use the other two cameras, but I felt oddly out of sorts with those very cameras that I had become quite comfortable using. I now begin to understand why one might choose a brand and stick with it (aside from the question of lens investment). This phenomenon is probably well known to most people, but because I’m quite comfortable with tech, I guess I assumed that I could easily master each camera. But ultimately I think it is a barrier to my photography. I need to be able to react to a vision without fumbling around trying to remember what is different on this camera or that. I need to be able to adjust the camera almost without conscious thought. Long story short, I’m going back to one camera as my primary camera.

So which will it be? The EP-1, the GH1 or the GX100?

It has been interesting to compare the two m4/3 systems. I think that I’m finally at the point where I can say that I prefer the GH1. There are a couple features I really like in the Olympus, but all around I find the GH1 better in almost every way. If I had to name just one thing that really tips things away from the EP-1 it would be the autofocus. And it is not that fact that it’s slow. That has been widely reported on, but it is not so important for my type of photography. It’s just that the focus points are too large, and I can find no way to adjust them. With the GH1, I’m able to configure a central autofocus point that is quite small, and use it to quickly and accurately set focus. With the EP-1, I’ve come away with several shots that look back- or front-focused. This is primarily with still-life type shots made at close distance, with wide apertures, such as this one.  While it is possible that I am actually experiencing back or front focus, I attribute it more to the fact that the autofocus square covers so much area that when using large apertures these subtle focusing errors are revealed. I’ve ended up using manual focus a lot, which I don’t mind doing once it a while, but I certainly don’t like being forced into it.

In those aspects that were supposedly touted to be better for Olympus I’ve not found any significant advantage. JPEG color, especially, seems no better than on the GH1 (to my eye) and the GH1 has more interesting in-camera options for tweaking that. Although the EP-1 is smaller than the GH1, it is large enough that it still doesn’t carry quite as comfortably as a compact camera. And because of the metal build of the EP-1 it feels easily as heavy as the GH1, meaning that it’s about the same amount of bother to carry either of them. And the GH1 has the great viewfinder.

And the GX100? I have had a very good relationship with that camera. The GX100 will continue to be the one I carry when small size is paramount. But I’ve gotten used to the more interesting creative possibilities of the GH1, the prime lenses, and above all the dynamic range that comes with bigger pixels. So the Panasonic GH1 becomes my to go to cam again, with the EP-1 reserved mainly as a backup body for the m4/3 lenses.

I guess sometimes less is more, after all!

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